Mardi Gras with the Skeleton Krewe

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This year I spent Mardi Gras Photographing the Skeleton Krewe. The Krewe was created by Christopher Kirsch, a New Orleans native and fine artist in the truest sense of the word. 

Click here to check out a preview of a book i made from the photos I shot that day. And here to see more see images from 2013's Le Krewe D'Etat parade. 

I asked Christopher what inspired him to create his own crew. Here is his response. " 

 There is no one factor that inspired me to start my own Mardi Gras Marching Krewe but rather a series of events.

First off it's in my blood, my father and my father's father both marched in the oldest Mardi Gras marching club, the Jefferson City Buzzards. The history of that club goes all the way back to 1890. I knew I couldn't be a Buzzard but that's another story.....I knew I had to start something on my own. As a child I was always fascinated by a photo that they would publish every Mardi Gras in the times picayune of several skeletons walking down Magazine Street, it's an early photo before the streets were paved in New Orleans and as a child this picture fascinated me, always thinking to myself “that ain't Mardi Gras that Halloween” Year after year they would publish this photo in their Mardi Gras supplement pull-out. It wasn't until the 1990's when Mardi Gras was dieing did I learn that skeletons are a common image in Mardi Gras in New Orleans as well as Carnival celebrations around the world, from Rio to Haiti and even Italy. Around that time I became to soak up any Carnival and Mardi Gras history I could from a Gambit article about the Black Bone Gangs or New Orleans, to a James Gill book called Lords of Misrule and several other books on the subject.... after reading about how Comus started as a street level procession I was determined to build something of my own to help save Mardi Gras....now this didn't happen over night, it started slowly and has built slowly.I knew I wanted to be traditional, I knew it had to be Papier Mache just like the early heads of the giant walking heads of Comus and I knew I wouldn't want to wear a head over and over again, every year it would have to be a new head, and I new nothing could be store bought and ready to wear (okay our gloves are store bought but that's it) 
It started slowly, me by myself in 1999 and again in 2000 
Then in 2001 my then girlfriend (now my wife) decided to make a head (a devil, also a traditional carnival image) some friends saw us that year and joined us in 2002, slowly we grew but I new I always wanted to maintain control and quality of the krewe. By 2003 we settled on a logo and went forward, we grew from 6 members in 2003 to about 40 now, some aren't active due to little ones of having to relocate post-Katrina but I still consider most people that once marched with us members (there are only a few that I would never let march again – but I ask you don't print that) in 2012 we had 24 active members, in 2013 we only had 17 due to illness of some a bad back of another and others not being able to get the day off.

In 2000 I began costuming as a skeleton for the Le Krewe d”Etat parade, somewhere along the lines they noticed and by carnival 2005 we were asked to take part in their parade and pass out their Carnival Bulletin and their own Wooden Nickels, the only way to get these items is to obtain them from the Skeleton Krewe during the parade. We have proudly lead their procession since then, learning and growing along the way.We are made up of Artist, School Teachers, Liberians, Fire Fighters, Attorneys, professors and Office Workers and more. We range in age from the late 20s to the early 60s We spend about 6 plus weeks of heavy preparation to get ready for Carnival, from each member making their own head to spending time getting our trailer ready for Le Krewe d”Etat or making banners or ordering “throws”, we are broken up into committees to help organize everything. Some of us spend much more than 6 weeks on the Skeleton Krewe........

Our Krewe starts early on Mardi Gras morning, leaving a secret location before sunrise and heading down the traditional parade route down St Charles Ave. before heading into the French Quarter, each year we stop at St. Louis Cathedral and have a meal and meet and greet other Marching clubs, This year we toasted the Krewe of Bike-Us in years past we have met up with the Krewe of Grotesque and Outlandish Habiliments, the Krewe of the Golden Calf or the Krewe of Chartreuse and others. Part of our Carnival ritual has evolved into Battling the Christians (not very Christian Christians) I like how you have labeled them A Christian Hate Group. It has just sort of happened, this year was the first for the Blah Blah Blah banner but we are already planning on making more of those along with some nonsensical Christian banners....you'll have to wait until 2014 to see what we come up with.....after we tire of the Christians we move on to the R Bar on Royal Street to meet up and watch the Society of Saint Anne, we slowly disband and start heading home around 2 in the afternoon or so. I would just like to mention that there is nothing else I ever want to do for Mardi Gras ever again" 

To see more images check out set on flickr here. 

Perfect for Summer Reading - Larry Flynt's New Book

Larry Flynt was in New Orleans on June 21st promoting his new book, "One Nation Under Sex: How the Private Lives of Presidents, First Ladies and Their Lovers Changed the Course of American History," co-written by historian David Eisenbach. He held court at the Hustler gift shop on Bourbon Street, signing books, magazines and body parts.


 Chris Rose, New Orleans author of “One Dead in the Attic,” interviewed him for Fox 8." Like me, Rose is a fan of Flynt's work as a free speech activist. But I didn’t follow the conversation; I was more intent on capturing the moment. The men spoke in front of a wall of bras, Flynt seated in his signature gold wheel chair, as close to a hundred fans lined up to meet him. For the book signing, he moved to a table with a backdrop picturing Hustler pole dancers. Next to him sat two women clad in Hustler t-shirts that exposed plenty of cleavage. Flynt enjoyed the antics of his fans: One woman had him sign her ass and a man had Flynt sign his chest. Reverend Jonathan Falwell brought the biggest smile to his face when he introduced himself and gave Flynt a rainbow Bible. Falwell's father, the late Jerry Falwell, sued Flynt in the landmark case that ended up in the Supreme Court, Flynt victorious as the Court ruled in favor of free speech.


 I bought a copy of Flynt's book and had him sign it. The book's premise--sex scandals are used as a smoke screen to take our attention off more important issues--is spot on. His book puts these scandals in historical context, a great way to refresh one's knowledge of American history.

Larry Flynt with Chris Rose

Reverend Jonathan Falwell gives Flynt Bible

Flynt with his wife, daughter and associates 

New Orleans Corporate Day of Action Focuses on BP as the BP Oil Spill Trial Is Postponed

On February 29, 2012, the New Orleans contingent of the Occupy Wall Street movement participated in the nationwide Corporate Day of Action by protesting against a possible BP settlement in front of the Federal Courthouse. Activists joined in a mock funeral for the Gulf. The trial, scheduled to begin on February 27th, was delayed by Judge Carl Barbier for a week in hopes a settlement can be reached. If a trial comes to pass, it could take over a year to complete since there are multiple plaintiffs suing BP after the largest oil spill in American history. The protesters are against a settlement. They want the case to be heard in court so it will be public record. Cherri Foylin, a Plaquemines Parish environmental activist, thinks Gulf Coast residents need a seat at the table or at least in the courtroom and doesn't trust that an equitable settlement can be reached behind closed doors. Darla Rooks, a shrimper who came to the protest in her fishing boots, fears that the the real damage done to the environment and the health of Gulf Coast residents will never be known if there is a settlement. Protest organizer Elizabeth Cook said she believes all settlements made under the Obama administration have favored corporations and that everyone needs to see and hear the evidence prepared for this trial. During the protest, Kindra Arnesen held up pictures of people and animals sickened since the spill, a man dressed as tent monster danced in front of the courthouse entrance and others made sure those who drove down Poydras Street knew the Occupy movement's presence in New Orleans hasn't gone away. To see more pictures check out a set on Flickr 

Mardi Gras 2012

Mardi Gras Indians on MardiGras Day

Mariska Hargitay on Mardi Gras Float 

Mardi Gras reminds me how unique a place New Orleans is, a city that goes mad for days on end. There is no getting around it. Everything is affected by the parades. It is better to participate than to fight it, catch some beads and, in my case, photograph the action. This year I found myself chasing stars, hoping to license some photos since star power helps. Some of my star shots populate a slide show on The Guardian's website.  On Marid Gras Day I caught up with Ken Bauvier, the chief deputy of EMS, who showed me a map of all the spotswhere ambulances were stationed throughout the city. I asked him what his team had been dealing with. While EMS took a woman away who had a heart attack near Gallier Hall, another woman was rescued by bystanders before EMS got to her, making her spit up a corndog she was choking on. More Mardi Gras specific, EMS treated  a couple of people with head injuries, the victims hit with coconuts thrown from Zulu floats, one with a badly broken nose. While I'm a person who doesn't hang on to much in the way of material objects (having learned a life lesson to stay light on my feet, too long a story for this blog entry), I left the parade with a  a real Mardi Gras treasure, a Zulu firetruck necklace given to me by Clancey DeBos.I went back home to file my shots when I got a tip the Mardi Gras Indians were gathering along Claiborne Ave. under the I-10 overpass near Esplanade. I followed the the Yellow Pocahontas Mardi Gras Indians and  photographed them in front of the Basin Bar, shooting them cast in magic hour glow. On my way back to my bike I saw smoke rising. Cars and motorcycles were marking up the road, doing donuts in Mad Max style.  Check out a video clip here. Here is a set of my photos shot throughout Marid Gras 2012 availble through Corbis and more in a set on Flickr . 

Terry Cambise on Mardi Gras Day

Chief deputy of EMS, Ken Bauvier With Map

Clancey DeBos In The Zulu Parade 

Will Ferrell King of Bacchus

Zulu Parade Portrait

 Babydolls dance group in Zulu

Zulu Parade on St. Charles Ave.

Daryl Hannah at Gallier Hall on Mardi Gras Day

Mad Maxxing on Fat Tuesday

New Orleans New Year Starts With Lots of Gun Activity

Suspects Cuffed With Hands on Car

The new year in New Orleans has gotten off to a crime-ridden start: 27 people shot as of January 12, two dead. I spent New Year's Eve riding along with officer David Desalvo who got his first illegally used firearm off the streets along with the man who chose to shoot it into the air 30 minutes into January 1. Here is a link to my story shot during a number of ride-alongs between Christmas and New Year's Eve.   and another from a gun buy back program in Jefferson Parish held on January 7. 

I started paying more attention to cops and bad guys after my best friend was held up at gun point while shopping for an onion for our dinner. I told him we could do without the onion, but he said, "i like going to my corner bodega." He doesn't like it anymore. Two thieves, one carrying a gun, held him up the Monday night before Christmas in the well lit parking lot of market a couple blocks away from where he lives. People were around, but lately gunmen in New Olreans don't seem much troubled by witnesses. My friend gave up his money, but when the gunman wanted his car too, he fought back. While the gunman counted the money, my friend hit him in the head and ran into the store, asking them to call 911. The thieves ran. My friend chased them in his car, calling a 911 dispatcher and telling them which way the thieves were running. WIthin minutes, the gunman was caught though his accomplice got away. My friend was able to ID him and get his own ID back. His money? Well maybe one day, but more important, the gun was recovered and the perp is now sitting in jail with a high bond. Over an hour later my friend was back. He didn't have the onion, but he did have a story one doesn't hear much in New Orleans: a story about police doing a great job. Ten officers were on the scene in minutes. That is what inspired me to do a series of ride-alongs.

My friend is the last person I'd exoect to be a victim, He's pretty tough. His sudden vulnerability shook me up. After a few ride-alongs I see New Orleans differently. Crime is not making me think of moving on or staying in, but I do lock my car doors while driving and I don't shop in the 5th district at night . Filling up my gas tank has become a daytime activity.


 click here to see me on Fox 8 talking with Rob Masson and Liz Reyes about my photos from the gun buy back program and ride alongs.

A Lorcin .25-caliber semi-automatic pistol, turned in for $50

These days don't be surprised if you here gun shots on the streets.

Perp who lost his shoe while running from officer DaSalvo 

A drunk man is subdued after a domestic violence incident on New Year's Eve.

Johnny Ngai  and Benny Griffen with guns turned in at the Gun Buy Back Program

First Pictures of the New Year 2011

New Year's Eve in New Orleans was a foggy affair, Click here to see a set of images of the fireworks over the Mississippi River.
New Orleans' Superintendent Ronal Serpas held a press conference on New Year's Day sharing good news: There were no reports of injury due to stray bullets during the celebration.
No murders in New Orleans either, though there was one across the lake in Mandeville, where there was also a birth. Baby Carmelo O'mari Ard, son of Ta'kia Ard, was delivered five-seconds after midnight at Regional Medical Center in Covington making him the first baby born in Louisiana in 2011. The hospital thought he might be the first born in America, but a babies in Chicago and New York beat him out.

Thanksgiving in New Orleans post Po-boy Festival

I haven’t gotten used to Christmas lights going up before Thanksgiving and I’m not sure what to make of the newest addition to holiday lawn decoration, the blow-up turkeys. This year Wal-Mart is taking care so people wont get stampeded to death at their stores on Black Friday. Since they take out insurance policies on their workers, losing one or two of them probably isn’t too bad for the bottom line but equating shopping and danger couldn’t be a good marketing device.

Sure as it is Thanksgiving my father will be carving the turkey my mother cooks, tasting a few prime bits in between slicing the bird. Bo, the poodle will poodle will be nearby waiting for scraps that will inevitably end up her way.This Thanksgiving I am in New Orleans, touched by five different invitations from people who wanted to make sure I wasn’t alone since I’m away from my family. For fear of eating way past my limit I’m limiting myself to going to two celebrations.

Thanksgiving is a holiday I have had mixed feelings about ever since I was a kid and learned that the American Indians who so graciously helped the Pilgrims learn to farm and shared the original Thanksgiving meal celebrating their harvest were later banished from their land and in many instances massacred. Though I will never stop thinking about the plight of the American Indians on Thanksgiving, I understand why it is an American favorite and do participate in a special meal wherever I find myself on the day. Giving thanks is always a good thing as is eating with friends and family. This year I will have more crawfish pie than turkey. One of the advantages of being in New Orleans: lots of local goodies will be served along with turkey and cocktails will start being poured by noon.

Here is a link to another food related topic: the New Orleans Po-boy festival. I posted images of the event on Flikr. I don’t usually eat when I work but couldn’t resist the soft shell crab tempura po-boy. Though it didn’t win best po-boy in the festival’s competition, it has my vote.
Happy Thanksgiving

Images, Top: Father carving turkey in Englewood N.J., Lawn turkey light, Chalmette, Bottom: Soft-shell crab Po-boy, Po-boy festival offering in New Orleans, Taxidermy turkey form the Fairbanks Museum in Newbury Vermont

Autumn brings subtle changes in Louisiana

Update from New Orleans:

This fall President Obama visited New Orleans for a town hall meeting. The USS New York, a battle ship built in Louisiana with recycled steel from the World Trade Center disembarked headed for its namesake. Justice of the Peace Keith Bardwell resigned weeks after the international press picked up the story of his refusal to marry an interracial couple. Republican Congressman Cao, who ran against former Democratic Congressman Jefferson, voted for the health care bill while Jefferson got a 13 year sentence for bribery and racketeering. Some of Mayor Ray Nagin’s close associates have been indicted on corruption charges, creating speculation on when it will be his turn. The Saints won eight games straight and along the shores of Lake Verret cypress trees turned shades of orange.

Check out an interview about my news book that was on Fox8's morning show on Nov. 17. 09 - link to interview To see more images shot at Lake Verret click here to see a set on Flickr.

New Orleans four years after Katrina

Last year, just before the third anniversary of Katrina, President Bush visited Jackson Barracks, where a 200 million dollar renovation was well under way in the Lower 9th Ward, and reaffirmed his promises: “Together, we are working to make sure that New Orleans comes back - even stronger, safer, and more vibrant than it was before the storm.” He acknowledged more work needed to be done with the tone of a cheerleader, not a world leader. Bush's first view of the devastation after the storm was from the windows of Air Force One. I wonder which neighborhoods he toured before giving his rah-rah speech. Did he see what I was seeing?
A year later as Katrina’s 4th anniversary approaches, a headline in the local paper, the Times Picayuane, reads, “Obama keeps close tabs on New Orleans recovery -- from a distance.” I wonder what these "close tabs" are. Can one know the situation without seeing it for oneself? Block after block of abandoned destroyed homes, a city with the nation's highest murder rate, and many other substantial problems with no plan in place to solve them.
This anniversary, Mayor Nagin's focus won't be remembering the dead. He has said it is time to move on from mourning. Nagin plans to highlight some of the progress made under his administration while his staff scrambles to protect themselves against lawsuits and Federal investigations. The Feds are looking into numerous acts of wrongdoing going up the ladder to Nagin himself.
The 4th anniversary of Katrina is a good time to ask why New Orleans recovery is so far from complete. Ivan Van Heerden, a former professor at LA State University, stated, “If we had the will and one month’s money we spend in Iraq, we could do all the levees and restore the coast.” Many neighborhoods have not recovered much at all, others are threatened by levees that still do not offer protection against a Category 4 storm. While 130,000 troops and countless private contractors remain on stand-by in Iraq in case Iraq proves unable to handle its own security, and while we expand the battlefield in Afghanistan, much of New Orleans resembles a war-torn Third World country.

I have been following the progress of Brad Pitt’s “Make it Right” housing project in the lower 9th Ward since 2007. Currently there are fifteen completed homes and another 150 to be built. I met one of the residents, Lloyd Griffin and interviewed him. Here is a link to a video interview of him http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ia19Wodq_sc
To see more images of a photo series on New Orleans right before the 4 years anniversary of Katrina check out this link http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliedermansky/sets/72157621951982065/

To New Orleans on Katrina’s Anniversary, may the healing process speed up.